Traveling by Train in France
Friends from Portland, Ore. are coming to France this summer. They’ll be taking the train from Paris to Rennes where I’ll pick them up. The French train system is easy, but often unfamiliar to North Americans. Since my friends haven’t been to Europe in a while, I wanted to share some valuable tips about riding the rails in France. Things I wish someone had told me years ago. Hence the inspiration for this post. With these tips, and knowing what to expect, you'll be more relaxed and ready to enjoy your journey.
Book your trip
Use the SNCF Connect website to book your trip, either on the website or through the SNCF Connect app on Google Play or the Apple Store. Unlike Trainline.com and RailEurope.com, SNCF does not charge a booking fee. Bookings open four months ahead for TGV trains (France's intercity high-speed rail service) and three to five months for TER regional trains. For TER trains, you can also buy tickets at the station ticket office or from their self-service machines.
Enter your destination first, then enter your departure location, the date you want to travel and your return date if applicable. Select “Traveler.” If you are 60 or older, you will receive a discount. Click on “See prices,” to view all travel options, and “Display the next journeys” for more routes. You’ll see the duration time for each journey, and when you select a trip, you’ll see the entire route and all stops. Select first or second class and click on “Select this outbound journey.” For regional TER trains there are no assigned seats, but for TGV trains, you can select your reserved seat.
Check for train strikes
I hate to mention this, but railroad employees going on strike (sometimes with as little as 24-hour notice) is a fact of life in France. Check SNCF or Google “France train strike” before you travel. A train strikes doesn’t mean there are no trains running. I learned this from a firsthand experience. The night before I was to leave Lyon for the first of three train journeys that day, I just happened to see the train strike announcement on the news. I logged into SNCF-Connect and found my trip had been canceled. It threw me into a bit of a panic.
The next morning, I headed to the train station several hours before my planned journey and waited in the long customer service line. The agent was able to reroute me on an earlier train for the first leg of my journey and change my other two trips as well, although I didn’t have an assigned seat. If your trip is canceled due to a strike and you can’t change your travel dates, head to the train station early and see customer service. If you don’t need to travel that day, your ticket will be automatically refunded.
Arrive early
French trains wait for no one. If you are not familiar with the station, arrive at 30 minutes or more before your departure. Train stations in Paris are huge and serve not only the TGV and regional trains, but also the metro and RER trains that connect Paris with the surrounding suburbs. Each type of train may be on a different level. When you arrive, find a map of the station and locate the floor where you will board your train.
Find the blue board for departures
Throughout the station you’ll see large electronic message boards. The green one is for arrivals and the blue one for departures. The board will display the departure time, the final destination and the train number, which is a four-to-six-digit number on your ticket. Always go by the train number as there may be multiple trains going to the same final destination, but not all of them may stop at your destination.
Find your train number on the board, and look for the platform number in a square on the right. Platform numbers are announced 10 to 20 minutes before departure. I like to find the departure board that is closest to the tracks, so when the track number displays, I don’t have far to go. If you’re in a large Paris station like Gare Montparnasse, you’ll be surrounded by dozens of people with their eyes glued to the screen. The second the platform number appears, an entire mass of people will turn and head like herded cattle to the platform. Have your ticket with the bar code in your hand, either printed out or on your phone. Place the barcode on the reader, and you’ll be able to pass through the gate.
Find your train car
On your ticket, you’ll see a coach number, a seat number and whether you’re on the upper or lower level. The car or coach is called a “Voiture” in French, and the number appears as "Voiture 1" for example on an electric display in the upper corner of each train car near the door. Don’t confuse this will the large numbers 1 and 2 on the train cars, as this refers to whether the train car is first class or second class.
If you are able to access the train platform before the train arrives, there is usually a chart showing the voiture number and a letter of the alphabet. You’ll see the alphabet running along the floor of the platform and you’ll know approximately where your train car will stop. This will save you having to scramble through the crowds to reach your car in time.
However, more often than not at large stations the train is already there, and you have ten minutes to get to the track, get through the gates with a line of people ahead of you and then find your car. TGV trains can have up to 18 passenger cars. And train cars are not always consecutively numbered.
There are always uniformed SNCF train officials on the platform. Don’t hesitate to ask them for help finding your car. Most will understand English, but all you have to do is show them your ticket and they will point you in the right direction.
One time, at Gare Montparnasse, I didn't find my car in time. I walked by 10 train cars before realizing my car number had been added in front, out of sequence. The train conductor blew the last whistle and said get on board NOW! Like I said, French trains wait for no one. I jumped on the nearest second-class car with my huge suitcase. The conductor onboard was nice enough to put me in a lower-level seat reserved for people with disabilities, which was very roomy and comfortable.
Store your luggage and personal items
Large suitcases and airport-size carryon bags need to be stored in the downstairs luggage racks, usually at the end of the train car where you enter, but sometimes within the seating area. Some trains have luggage racks on the second floor if you don’t mind hauling them up the narrow stairs. I recommend locking and labeling your luggage and taking any valuables with you.
You’ll find a luggage rack above the seats for coats and small bags. However, these are not large enough for a suitcase and they are high up, so I don’t recommend them for heavy items. You can store your purse or small backpack by your feet, but this area can be very dirty. I like to keep my purse and laptop on the pull-down tray table.
While large train stations have elevators, ramps and escalators, not all stations have these conveniences. You may have to carry your bags up and down stairs. It's best to travel as light as possible. If you are bringing large suitcases or multiple suitcases, be aware that some trains have luggage restrictions. You can read more about that here.
Settle in
After you're seated, be ready to show your ticket if the conductor comes around to check.
Every car will have a bathroom. However, it may be on the upper level. I would suggest using the bathroom in the train station before you leave. It typically costs one euro, but it’s worth it, as the bathrooms have attendants who keep them very clean. Using a bathroom on a TGV train going up to 199 miles per hour (or 320 kilometers per hour) can be quite a ride.
Have a snack or meal
You’re welcome to bring your own food and beverages onboard, including wine and beer. Depending on the size of the train station, you’ll find boulangeries, restaurants and convenience stores where you can grab something to go. Most TGV long-distance trains have a café car where you can purchase beverages, sandwiches, pastries and snacks. You can also pre-order food that will be delivered to your seat.
Relax and enjoy the journey
There is nothing better than settling in for a ride through the scenic French countryside. Most trains will have a board showing the next stop, which in French is “prochain arrêt.” They will also announce the next stop in French. If you’re worried about missing your stop, just ask the conductor or a fellow passenger if your stop is the next one.
I hope these tips make your next train journey a little less stressful and a lot more fun.
